High shutter speed combined with high-speed synchronization easily capture the action screen

April 2, 2018 canvasuniversityorg No Comments

High shutter speed combined with high-speed synchronization easily capture the action screen

You can use the flash to freeze the action into a more vivid picture when shooting motion and motion. canvas prints chapter describes the settings for capturing motion using a combination of high shutter speed and high-speed sync settings and discusses how to express the action by using the second-curtain sync setting in combination with a slower shutter speed. However, take into consideration the fact that although using a small flash capture action can create a moving portrait, print on canvas australia should not try to capture the sporting event. For example, you will not see photographers on the sidelines of the football match using the flash on the camera and you will not see a pile of lamp posts next to the stadium. But you can use the techniques described in this chapter to create great sport portraits.

First, the action freeze frame

If you use the flash to freeze the action correctly, you make very good video artwork. It may also create something that looks like a flash rush into the scene recklessly, destroying the imagery and creating a seemingly wrong image. Want to achieve the correct effect, to avoid the illegal situation, we need to re-examine the synchronization speed and high-speed synchronization.

1, synchronous speed

The sync speed is the highest shutter speed you can use and still allows the flash to emit a single flash between the front curtain open and the rear curtain close. For most cameras, it is usually 1 / 200s or 1 / 250s shutter speed. So, if you have a flash attached to the camera (or connected via a TTL cable) and use a shutter speed of 1 / 250s or slower, the flash will fire with the front curtain open and the rear curtain close before starting to close.

The problem with shooting fast moving subjects is that the shutter speed of 1 / 250s is not fast enough to freeze the instant action. For instance, if you are shooting a tennis player serving, you need to use a shutter speed of 1/1 000s or higher. In the photo of the water polo at the very beginning of this chapter, I used a 1/5 000s shutter speed to catch the drops of water that settled in the air. / 2, high-speed synchronization

The Nikon Creative Speedlight's high-speed sync feature lets the flash fire multiple times at the front and rear curtains pass through the metering window. This means in practice that the flash will need to fire several times during the exposure, and the flash output must be identical for each flash, or the exposure will change during shooting. As noted in chapter 9, you can use the menu system to turn on high-speed sync in your camera.

The nice thing about Cls and advanced wireless flashes is that the off-camera flash also uses the high-speed sync feature, which means you get the correct exposure for shutter speed faster than 1 / 250s while catching the flash. From Figure 13.1 to Figure 13.3, you can see the sequence of the whole process: the front curtain is open and the flash fires; then the rear curtain starts to close and the flash flashes again and again to create the same exposure throughout the shot , Completed Figure 13.4.

High shutter speed combined with high-speed synchronization easily capture the action screen High shutter speed combined with high-speed synchronization easily capture the action screen

There are for two main reasons for recommending high-speed sync when taking these types of images: The first reason is obvious, and you want to freeze the action; but the second reason is that it really adds something extra to the photo. By using high-speed synchronization, the photographer can use a larger aperture to create a lighter depth of field under a bright sunshine, which is still well illuminated. For example, if I shoot outdoors with a shutter speed of 1/2 000s and an aperture of F3.2, the background will be now a man with no focus and the focus will be focused on the subject.

2, flash output

When you use the flash in high-speed sync mode, the flash needs to flash rapidly and continuously multiple times. The flash fires so fast that it looks like it's only blinking once, but in fact it flashes several times during this time to match the time on the front and rear curtains pass through the metering window. This means the flash needs a flash output – a lot of flash output. The first and most important point is that all you can do be make sure your battery is fully charged so that it can give the flash the full amount of power it needs. The second thing you can do be using the remote flash in manual mode, so there will be no pre-flash, which means the flash uses all its power for primary lighting. You are required to make sure you have enough spare battery so you do not get into the awkward situation of running out of power. When using the high-speed sync feature, the battery runs out much faster.

3, with more flash

The best way to address the need for more flash output is to use multiple flash units. Photographers can combine multiple flash units to create a single light source. If you use two flashes that have half the flash output, they all produce a flash maximum output in just half the flash output. This reduces the cycle time and extends the life of each flash.

Utilizing a multi-flash stand is crucial because it allows multiple flash units to use the same light-grooming accessory. My favorite flash stand is McNally's TriGrip stand (lanceolate, www.lastolite.com). Square Canvas Prints can support three flashes, and allows the photographer to rotate the flash. This triangular hand-held bracket can support the flash so that the highest flash can be seen in the flash's metering window. You can see the use of the Triangle Handheld Stand at the end of the next section – I use three flash units to perform karate pre-kicking lighting for Tim.

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